My Dream 12-Day Kenya Safari Itinerary (Maasai Mara, Lake Nakuru & Amboseli)

Since childhood, I had dreamed of traveling to Africa to see the animals in real life that I had watched on a television show called Big Cat Diary. That made choosing my safari destination easy, as Big Cat Diary was filmed in Kenya, primarily in the Maasai Mara National Reserve. The real challenge was deciding where else to visit, how long to stay at each location, and in what order to structure the trip.

Looking back, I think the itinerary came together incredibly well, but there are a few things I would change if I planned this trip again. As a wildlife photographer, I also learned several lessons about camera settings, gear choices, and preparing for animal encounters. I’ll cover those topics in a separate post.

I booked my safari through Gorilla O’Clock, a boutique safari company based in Kenya that specializes in custom trips throughout Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda, and Uganda. After discussing what I was looking for and refining the itinerary, they handled all of the logistics, including accommodations, park fees, transportation, and permits.

One of the things I appreciated most was the flexibility to fully customize my trip. They worked with me through multiple rounds of emails until every detail felt right. Once I arrived, our guide handled all of the driving and logistics, allowing me to focus entirely on the experience. We had a private safari vehicle for every game drive, never having to worry about navigating between destinations. From start to finish, everything was taken care of, making the trip completely stress-free.

My 12 Day Safari Route 

• 2 nights Nairobi
• 4 nights Maasai Mara
• 2 nights Lake Nakuru
• 3 nights Amboseli (Return to Nairobi on the last day)

Day 2 – Nairobi

• David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust
• Giraffe Centre
• Lunch at the Matbronze Cafe

On our only full day in Nairobi, we started the morning with a visit to the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, where we learned about the rehabilitation of orphaned baby elephants. This is an experience I would highly recommend. Watching the elephants eagerly run out for their bottle feeding and hearing their individual rescue stories was both heartwarming and educational. The viewing session lasts about an hour and provides a unique opportunity to see the elephants up close.

Next, we visited the Giraffe Centre, where visitors can learn about giraffe conservation while feeding endangered Rothschild’s giraffes from an elevated platform. It was a fun and interactive experience that offered some great photo opportunities.

Afterward, our guide took us to Matbronze Café for lunch. The food was excellent, and the beautiful garden setting made it one of my favorite meals of the trip. I would absolutely recommend stopping here if you’re spending time in Nairobi.

This first full day in Kenya was the perfect introduction to the adventure ahead. It eased us into safari mode while allowing time to recover from the long journey. Between the elephants, giraffes, and relaxed pace of the day, it was an unforgettable start to the trip. 

 Day 3–6: Maasai Mara National Reserve

Accommodation: Little Zebra River Camp

Day 3 – Transfer to Maasai Mara & First Game Drive

• Transfer to Little Zebra River Camp
• Lunch and time to settle in
• Afternoon game drive
• Evening cocktails and dinner

We woke up bright and early to begin our journey to the Maasai Mara. The drive took about five hours, but the time flew by. Along the way, we passed through small towns, rolling landscapes, and bustling roadside markets, making the journey itself part of the experience.

After arriving at Little Zebra River Camp and settling into our tent, it was finally time for our first safari. In East Africa, safari drives are commonly referred to as game drives, and I could hardly contain my excitement as we set off.

It didn’t take long before we spotted our first giraffes, followed shortly by a bull elephant. As an animal lover, wildlife photographer, and someone who had dreamed of visiting Africa since childhood, it’s difficult to put into words what I felt at that moment. Seeing these animals in the wild for the very first time felt surreal. After years of watching documentaries and imagining what a safari might be like, I was finally there. It felt like pure magic.

Back at camp that evening, we gathered at the bar for cocktails and shared stories from our first game drive with a few other guests and staff. One of my favorite parts of the experience was getting to know the people who made the camp feel so welcoming. After we mentioned that we’d love to learn a few Swahili phrases, the staff happily began teaching us new words and greetings. It was a small gesture, but one that made us feel even more connected to Kenya and its culture.

Day 4 –  Maasai Mara 

• Hot Air Balloon ride with bush breakfast 
• Lunch 
• Afternoon game drive 
• Evening cocktails and dinner 

Our wake-up time on Day 4 was at 3:30 a.m., but for good reason, we were heading out for a hot air balloon ride over the Maasai Mara.

I have always been afraid of heights, but I knew I had to face that fear for what felt like a once in a lifetime experience. The final verdict? It was absolutely worth it.

The balloon flies relatively low, making it easy to spot wildlife below. We drifted over the savanna as the sun rose, watching animals move across the landscape beneath us. If you’re visiting during the Great Migration, this experience is especially spectacular, as you’ll likely see large herds spread across the plains. We missed the migration herds by a week! But still got to see some larger wildebeest herds. 

After landing in the reserve, we took a short drive to a bush breakfast shared with the other passengers from the flight. Between the balloon ride itself, the breakfast, and the wildlife sightings along the way, the entire morning felt magical. Even the transportation to and from the launch site doubled as an extra game drive, with plenty of animal sightings along the route.

This was also the only time during our trip that we shared a safari vehicle with other travelers. While I loved having a private vehicle throughout most of the safari, it was fun to meet other people and hear about their wildlife sightings and experiences.

Later that afternoon, we headed out for another game drive. Just when I thought the day couldn’t possibly get any better, I heard a word crackle over the radio:

“Chui.”

Thanks to our Swahili lessons with the camp staff, I knew exactly what it meant.

Leopard.

My heart immediately started racing. Leopards had always been my number one dream animal to see, and one had reportedly been spotted earlier that day.

As daylight began to fade and the reserve’s closing time approached, I started to wonder if we had missed our chance. Then, just before sunset, we found it.

A leopard resting in a tree.

My body was shaking with adrenaline as I tried to steady my camera against the rail of the vehicle. After dreaming about this moment for years, I could hardly believe I was actually looking at a wild leopard through my viewfinder. It was one of the most exciting wildlife encounters of my life and a moment I’ll never forget.

Day 5  – Maasai Mara

• Breakfast
• Morning game drive 
• Maasai Village visit
• Evening Game drive 

On Day 5, we embarked on both a morning and afternoon game drive, with a visit to a Maasai village in between. We were welcomed into the community with traditional songs and had the opportunity to step inside a traditional Maasai home while learning about their culture and way of life.

Before leaving, we spent some time shopping at the village market and picked up several handmade souvenirs. If you visit, be sure to ask about prices beforehand, as costs can add up quickly.

The combination of incredible wildlife viewing and cultural experiences made this another memorable day in the Maasai Mara.

Day 6  – Maasai Mara 

• Breakfast 
• Morning game drive 
• Lunch and Massage 
• Evening game drive 
• Birthday celebration 

Day 6 was an extra special day for me because it was my birthday, and I couldn’t imagine a better place to spend it than the Maasai Mara. During our morning game drive, we were lucky enough to witness a successful cheetah hunt, along with countless other wildlife sightings.

Back at camp, I enjoyed a relaxing massage and lunch at a table with views of the Talek river before heading out for our evening game drive. The staff at Little Zebra River Camp went above and beyond to make the day memorable, surprising me with decorations in my tent, songs, and a birthday cake. 

By this point in the trip, we had spent a lot of our downtime getting to know the staff, so celebrating with them felt like celebrating with friends. It was a birthday I’ll never forget.

Day 7-8 Lake Nakuru National Park

Accomodation: The Cliff 

Day 7 and 8 – Lake Nakuru 

• Arrival
• Lunch and Settle in 
• Game drives 
• Dinner 

Our guide kept telling us that all the important people stay here, so we must be important too. And honestly, the lodge made us feel that way. The tents were stunning, the service was exceptional, and every detail felt thoughtfully designed. This was the kind of place where staff pull out your chair to seat you for meals and provide a “silent wake-up” by rolling up your tent curtains in the morning so you can watch the sunrise over the lake from bed.

With only a small number of tents on the property, the experience felt very private and exclusive. As someone who enjoys connecting with people while traveling, I spent much of my downtime getting to know the staff. Upon arrival, they checked our IDs and quietly discovered it had recently been my birthday. To my surprise, they later appeared with a cake and a song and dance celebration. After getting over my initial shyness, I joined in the dancing.

The cappuccinos, cocktails, and meals were all excellent, making it easy to enjoy time back at camp between activities.

During our stay, we completed one morning safari and two afternoon game drives. Highlights included witnessing a successful lion hunt and seeing multiple white rhinos! I had hoped to spot a black rhino as well, but it ended up being the only animal on my wish list that we didn’t find.

The birdlife at Lake Nakuru was incredible. If you’re a birder or wildlife photographer, I would consider this a must-visit destination.

My biggest regret from this trip was only spending two nights here. Many travelers use Lake Nakuru as a stop between larger safari destinations, and I assumed that would be enough time. Looking back, I could easily have stayed longer. The lush green landscapes and lake views provided a beautiful contrast to the open plains of the Maasai Mara and made Lake Nakuru one of my favorite stops of the entire trip.

Day 9-12 Amboseli National Park

Accomodation: Tulia Amboseli Safari Camp

Day 9 – Amboseli

• Watch sunrise 
• Embark on route to Amboseli National Park
• Lunch and settle 
• Afternoon game drive

Our longest travel day during the trip was from Lake Nakuru to Amboseli. This took roughly 8 hours and it felt pretty long this time, however again the drive was captivating so at no point was I bored. We had to leave just after sunrise and eat our  grab and go breakfast on the road. After finally arriving, having a late lunch and settling in, we still had time for a short afternoon game drive. One thing for sure, safari days are LONG! We focused on maximizing every possible second. 

I chose Amboseli as our third destination because of the chance of seeing Mount Kilimanjaro from the park and from our camp. Amboseli actually has better views than parks in Tanzania where the mountain actually is.  However, Amboseli is called Amboseli for a reason, it translates to mean “Dust” in English. I had read that it was very dusty in Amboseli, but to be honest I just didn’t comprehend how dusty it would truly be. It was so dusty that Mount Kilimanjaro was hidden for most of each day and the safari vehicle and everything in it, including us, got covered in dust. Luckily I packed a dust scarf and some blue surgical masks just in case and those helped me to not breathe in as much dust.

Day 10 – Amboseli

• Breakfast
• All day game drive
• Dinner 

On our all-day game drive (we were out for nearly 12 hours!), we had incredible luck with big cats. We saw a coalition of five cheetahs, a pride of lions, and countless zebras and elephants throughout the day. If you love elephants, Amboseli is the place for you! Being in their presence is unlike anything else in the world; they are truly magnetic and up close sightings are frequent. 

One of the most fascinating parts of Amboseli is how the landscape changes. Due to snowmelt from Mount Kilimanjaro, the park shifts between dry, dusty plains and lush, marsh-like areas where we even saw hippos. In some areas, there were palm trees surrounded by wetlands, which made the scenery feel completely different from anything else we had seen on safari.

Day 11 – Amboseli

• Breakfast 
• Morning game drive
• Lunch 
• Afternoon game drive 
• Dinner
• Night cap

After our last two game drives on day 11, our last dinner felt celebratory for the success of the trip and memories made, but also a heavy feeling of “I can’t believe I have to leave this beautiful place and the safari lifestyle.” 

Once again, the entire staff came out to sing for us with yet another cake. By this time, I was a pro at the whole birthday song and cake cutting routine. 

At night from our tents we could hear lions and animals outside, this was our most “camping” like accommodation. Instead of a door, this tent had canvas zipper flaps, and the bathroom was separated from the living space by just a curtain. I loved all three of our accommodations for their uniqueness, but this experience was much more camp-like than the previous accommodations. The best part of the tent was by far the view we had from it. We would cap the evenings with a glass of wine watching the colors of sunset take hold as elephants and zebras walked by right in front of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Chef’s kiss, perfection.

Day 12 – Amboseli to Nairobi

• Breakfast 
• Depart for Nairobi 
• Last lunch and shopping 
• Catch our flight home

The reason I chose to end the trip in Amboseli was so we could depart directly for the airport, maximizing our time in the park.

At our request, our guide took us to the best place near Nairobi for wood-carved souvenirs. We were able to meet the artists and watch their work up close before picking out a few pieces to bring home. We also stopped at a local coffee shop to pick up coffee to take back with us.

After our final lunch together at Matbronze Café again (we liked it that much the first time), our guide dropped us off at the same airport where our journey had begun. It was a difficult goodbye. I wasn’t ready to leave, and I wasn’t ready for what had truly been the best 12 days of my life to come to an end.

My new dream is simply to go back.

What I’d Change 

• Spend 3 nights at Lake Nakuru instead of 2. Before visiting, I viewed Lake Nakuru as a shorter stop between the Maasai Mara and Amboseli. After seeing the scenery, rhinos, birdlife, and staying at The Cliff, I quickly realized I could have spent much longer there.
• Consider flying between some parks to reduce driving time. I genuinely enjoyed seeing the towns and landscapes along the way, but some travel days were very long. If time or comfort is a priority, flying between certain destinations may be worth considering.
• Bring more dust protection for Amboseli. I knew Amboseli was dusty, but I underestimated just how dusty it would be. Extra masks, lens-cleaning supplies, and protective gear for camera equipment would have been helpful.
• Build in one additional day to slow down and enjoy camp. We packed a lot into 12 days and maximized nearly every game drive. Looking back, I would have loved one extra day to relax, enjoy the camps, and soak in the experience a little more. 

What I’d Change as a Wildlife Photographer

• Pack a few grab-and-go breakfasts. The best wildlife photography light is often during the first hour after sunrise. Because we typically stayed at camp for breakfast, we sometimes missed prime lighting conditions and periods of peak animal activity. 
• Use my bean bag more often. I shot most of the trip handheld, which worked well, but a bean bag would have provided additional stability and helped improve sharpness on some of my photographs.